copper peptides

Copper Peptides for Very Dry, Sensitive, or Compromised Skin Barriers

 ·   · Editorial and sourcing policy  ·  10 min read  · By Chantelle, Co-founder

Hands applying the koppā GHK-Cu Face + Body Balm Stick to dry skin on the back of a hand

Can copper peptides help eczema or psoriasis? We couldn't find a published clinical trial that tested GHK-Cu on either condition. The research on copper peptides comes mostly from cells in a dish, animal wound studies and cosmetic studies on ageing skin. None of that tells you anything about eczema or psoriasis, so we don't claim it does.

Both are medical conditions with established treatments, and a dermatologist or your GP is the right person for diagnosis and for any decision about what goes on affected skin. This article explains what each condition is, what the copper peptide research does and doesn't cover, and some general skincare points for skin that reacts easily.

What is eczema?

The NHS[1] describes atopic eczema, also called atopic dermatitis, as a common condition that causes itchy skin. Skin can become dry, cracked, crusty, scaly or thickened, and it tends to go through flare-ups and calmer spells. It's most common in young children, but it can start at any age, and it's more likely if a parent has it or relatives have asthma or hay fever.

The American Academy of Dermatology[2] points out that eczema is actually a group of conditions, and atopic dermatitis is the most common type. It also notes that it looks different on different skin tones: pink or red on lighter skin, and dark brown, grey or purple, with very dry skin, on darker skin.

Triggers and treatment

The NHS lists common triggers as soaps and detergents, allergens such as pollen or pets, temperature changes, infections, stress and hormonal changes. There's no cure, though symptoms often improve with age. The main treatments are emollients, meaning moisturising creams, lotions and ointments used at least twice a day, and steroid creams for flare-ups. The AAD stresses that early diagnosis and proper treatment can stop it getting worse.

Smiling woman with natural skin texture and light freckles
Dry, itchy skin that keeps coming back deserves a proper diagnosis.

What is psoriasis?

The NHS describes psoriasis[3] as a common skin condition that causes itchy, painful patches of dry, flaky skin. The patches can look silvery-white and scaly. They tend to be pink or red on lighter skin and grey on darker skin. Nails can be affected too, with dents and pits.

Psoriasis happens because skin makes more skin cells than usual, and those cells build up into patches. The NHS says it's thought to be caused by a problem with the immune system, and it runs in families. Triggers include stress, alcohol, smoking, infections, skin injuries and some medicines. Like eczema, it can't be cured, but treatments such as vitamin D creams, steroid creams, light therapy and medicines help manage it.

Why they're different

People often group eczema and psoriasis together as "inflamed skin", but they aren't the same thing. Eczema is closely tied to dry, easily irritated skin, which is why moisturisers are the backbone of treatment. Psoriasis is thought to start in the immune system. That difference matters when you read claims about any ingredient being good for "both".

What does the research on copper peptides show?

Very little that bears on these conditions, and none of it is on eczema or psoriasis. GHK-Cu has decades of research behind it, but it was built on other questions. A 2015 review in BioMed Research International[4] summarises the main strands:

  • Cell studies showing effects on collagen and related molecules in a dish.
  • Wound studies in rats, mice, pigs and dogs.
  • Cosmetic studies on skin ageing, measuring things like firmness, fine lines and sun damage.

The review mentions that GHK has been proposed as a possible therapy for skin inflammation. That's a suggestion for future work, not a result in people with eczema or psoriasis.

Reading that research honestly

We apply the same rule of three to every study. What it did: looked at cells, animal wounds and ageing skin. How it relates to eczema and psoriasis: background at best, because nobody measured itch, flare-ups or patches. What it doesn't show: that GHK-Cu, or any product containing it, helps either condition. A wound model is not eczema, and collagen in a dish is not psoriasis.

Why we don't make eczema or psoriasis claims

Both conditions have treatments that were tested on the people who have them. Copper peptides haven't been. So we don't describe our products as helping eczema or psoriasis, and we'd be wary of anyone who does.

If you have either condition and want to try a new skincare product, ours included, check with your dermatologist or GP first. Never stop or swap a prescribed treatment for a cosmetic. And see a doctor promptly if skin looks infected, a flare isn't responding to your usual treatment, or you notice changes that haven't been checked before.

General skincare points for skin that reacts easily

These apply to anyone whose skin is easily irritated, whatever the reason:

  • One new product at a time. If something reacts, you'll know what it was.
  • Patch test first on a small area of unaffected skin for several days.
  • Skip broken or irritated skin. Don't start anything new on a patch that's already sore.
  • Keep the routine short. Fewer products means fewer chances of a reaction.
  • Go easy on strong actives. Stacking acids, retinoids and other actives can leave skin irritated.
  • Check for fragrance. Skin that reacts easily can react to things other skin tolerates, including fragrance and soap, so fragrance-free is the simpler place to start.

Our guide to copper peptides for sensitive skin goes into introducing products slowly, and our guide to repairing a damaged skin barrier explains what a stressed barrier looks and feels like.

How to use a copper peptide cream in an everyday routine

People use copper peptides for general signs of ageing: firmness, fine lines, dryness and skin that looks tired. That's what the cosmetic research measured. If you're new to the ingredient, what GHK-Cu is covers the basics.

If your dermatologist is happy for you to try it on unaffected skin, the routine is short:

  1. Patch test a small amount on unaffected skin for several days before using it more widely.
  2. Cleanse gently and pat dry.
  3. Massage in the GHK-Cu Advanced Capsule Cream, morning and night, after any serum. The visible blue capsules release as you massage it in; they are a delivery system, not an exfoliant.
  4. Keep it away from affected patches unless your dermatologist says otherwise, and keep using your prescribed emollients and treatments as directed.
  5. Finish mornings with sunscreen.
Texture of koppā GHK-Cu Advanced Capsule Cream, labelled fragrance-free and silicone-freekoppā GHK-Cu Advanced Capsule Cream being smoothed onto the neck
Fragrance-free, and smoothed on after serum, morning and night.

Where koppā fits, and where it doesn't

The GHK-Cu Advanced Capsule Cream is a daily moisturiser: 0.5% encapsulated GHK-Cu, 5% niacinamide, 4% squalane and 3% jojoba in a cushiony base, fragrance-free, 80 g, $70. It supports hydration and smoother, firmer-looking skin without a heavy finish. The full ingredient list and GHK-Cu concentration are on the product page, so you and your dermatologist can read exactly what's in it before you try it.

What it is not: an eczema or psoriasis treatment, an emollient prescribed for a flare, or a replacement for anything your doctor has given you. It contains active ingredients, including niacinamide, which is one more reason to patch test and to ask before using it on skin with a condition. No study has tested a koppā formula on eczema or psoriasis, and we don't suggest it for either.

koppā GHK-Cu Advanced Capsule Cream tube packshot on a navy backgroundA swatch of koppā GHK-Cu Advanced Capsule Cream showing the visible blue capsules
The capsule cream, 80 g, and its visible blue capsules.

Frequently asked questions

Can copper peptides replace my eczema or psoriasis treatment?

No. There's no clinical evidence that GHK-Cu helps either condition, and prescribed treatments have been tested on people who have them. Keep using what your doctor prescribed, and talk to them before you change anything. A cosmetic serum or cream isn't a substitute for emollients, steroid creams or any other treatment you've been given.

Is it safe to use copper peptides on eczema-prone skin?

We can't give a verdict, because it hasn't been studied in people with eczema. Eczema-prone skin can react to things other skin tolerates, including fragrance and soap. Ask your dermatologist or GP first. If they're happy for you to try it, patch test on unaffected skin and introduce it on its own. Our article on copper peptide irritation covers what a reaction can look like.

Is the koppā capsule cream an emollient for eczema?

No. It is a cosmetic daily moisturiser, fragrance-free, with 0.5% encapsulated GHK-Cu, 5% niacinamide, 4% squalane and 3% jojoba. It isn't designed, tested or sold for eczema or psoriasis. If you have either condition, use the emollients your doctor recommends and ask them before adding anything else.

How often can you use copper peptides?

For general skin care, most people use them once or twice a day. The questions around frequency and copper toxicity myths are covered in our guide to using copper peptides every day. If you have eczema or psoriasis, how often you use anything on your skin is worth agreeing with your dermatologist.

Are eczema and psoriasis the same thing?

No. Eczema is closely tied to dry, easily irritated skin, while the NHS says psoriasis is thought to be caused by a problem with the immune system, and it makes skin build up cells faster than usual. They can look similar, which is why a diagnosis from a dermatologist or GP matters.

The short version

Eczema and psoriasis are different long-term conditions, and neither can be cured, but both have treatments that work. We couldn't find any clinical trial of copper peptides for either, and GHK-Cu research is cell, animal wound and skin ageing work, so we don't claim it helps. See a dermatologist or GP for diagnosis and treatment, keep your routine gentle, and ask before you add anything new, a GHK-Cu cream included.

Sources and further reading

  1. NHS nhs.uk
  2. American Academy of Dermatology aad.org
  3. NHS describes psoriasis nhs.uk
  4. Loren Pickart et al. (2015). GHK Peptide as a Natural Modulator of Multiple Cellular Pathways in Skin Regeneration. BioMed Research International. DOI: 10.1155/2015/648108 pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

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